The Great Survivor: Douglas Firs of Albertas

The Southern Foothills of Alberta are welcome company as we make our way on Highway 22 north towards Calgary. The constricted BC mountain views give way to expansive horizons of seemingly unlimited visual potential. 

The seasonal, or even daily variations in how this vista presents itself often leaves one awestruck. Whether the verdant greens of spring, the waving grassland golds of fall, or the rolling expanses of white in winter, there is an inherent beauty in this landscape.

As the road rises in elevation towards the gas pumping station (1450m) a noticeable change in colour and texture on the hillsides is experienced. This area is referred to as the Porcupine Hills.

Located in the greater Livingstone Range Public Land Use Zone (PLUZ), that strives to maintain a balance between natural lands conservation and public recreational access, the forested hills are open for exploration. 

This rare and unique Alberta forest area is home to some of the largest and oldest trees in the province. With recorded ages nearing 600 years old, an emphasis on “old” needs to be reinforced. While the majority of the forested foothills are comprised of a mosaic of species including Engelmann spruce, lodgepole pine, limber pine, sub-alpine fir, aspen and cottonwood, it is the Douglas for that are the long reigning monarchs. A significantly large spruce that measured 0.83m dbh was aged at 180 years, while a lodgepole pine at 0.85m dbh logged in at 164 years. The celebrated “Adair Fir” is 1.67 m dbh, 30m in height, was estimated to be 381 years old when originally measured in 1965. 

Now at 442 years, this is not only an old tree, but also a very old looking “survivor” tree. 

Evidence of past forest fire activity can be observed in many forms, whether charred stumps, fire fractured rock, or the scorched corky bark of the Douglas fir trunks, this is a fire altered forest. With an average return period of approximately 150 years, most of the trees that carpet the hills are in the 100-to-200-year age range, but when you come across one of the big firs, it is obvious that they have been occupying their niche for a much longer time. 

Massive limbs reach outstretched, often in contorted forms, the tree's crown now appearing flat as a result of having had their top leader blown off or even impacted by lightning. Branches struggle to take on the role of a new leader, reaching skyward in an attempt to become the dominant keeper of the open sky above. Anaconda sized, and look-alike roots work their powerful intent into the sandstone bedrock. Firmly anchored in time.

Many of these big firs are actually visible from the highway. Projecting up above the canopy horizon, there is a tell-tale shape and form that gives away their position. With a little bit of effort, that usually calls for climbing over a barbwire fence, navigating around the cow trails that wind in and about the forest, and then choosing a route through tortuous stacks of blowdown, you might be lucky enough to be standing at the base of one of these, or sometimes even within stands of these great trees. 

The gravel surfaced Secondary Highway 520 that connects Claresholm to Highway 22 climbs steeply up to an intersection with the Trout Creek East Rd to the north, and the Skyline Rd to the south. Travelling in either direction places you right in the Porcupine Hills, where big tree exploration opportunities abound. With randomly occurring openings in the forest, views to the sweeping prairies to the east and views of the Rocky Mountains to the west further enhance any outing in this inviting foothill landscape. Of note, many grizzly bears inhabit this rich ecosystem,  so best beware, and always carry your pepper spray in case of unexpected encounters.